Nearly every day I pass by tomatillo plants being grown in recycled pails and flowers sprouting from what looks like an old mop bucket. I habitually check my wallet, hoping I’ll have $7. If I happen to have the cash on hand, I take it as a sign and slide through San Lucas Pizzeria’s door for my favorite slice in the city.
Since I moved to South Philly, this spot has felt like my spot. The food is reasonably priced, and I recognize everyone behind the counter. When I pass by on my run to the gym, the smell of fresh-baked pizza and slow-cooked meat is always present (which is why I cross the street to avoid being lured in).
So when I saw that The New York Times named San Lucas one of the best pizza places in the country back in June, I was surprised. And it wasn’t because I didn’t think the Mexican-flavored slices could stand up to any New York pie, but because this restaurant feels so intimate to the neighborhood. It’s a hidden gem you show off to best friends from out of town when they visit, not somewhere you expect national media organizations to pay attention to.
Valentin Palillero and Eva Mendez, the husband-and-wife duo behind San Lucas, revel in the opportunity to work with family every day. (Abby Fritz / City Cast Philly)
Valentin Palillero and his wife Eva Mendez opened this pizzeria in July 2005. Palillero took over the spot, originally a pizzeria selling traditional slices, and decided to sell not only classic Italian pies but also ones inspired by the flavors of Puebla, Mexico, where Palillero is from.
Palillero says customers were initially unsure of the offerings, like those featuring avocado slices and carnitas meat, but the flavors caught on quickly after the shop gave out samples. Now the most popular order is the al pastor pizza, which has seasoned pork, cilantro, and onion, plus lime wedges and a spicy chile guajillo sauce on the side.
Palillero says the carnitas pizza is the second most popular order, distinguished from al pastor by the fact that the pork is slow-cooked. (Abby Fritz / City Cast Philly)
Months after The New York Times list came out, Palillero recounts the effect it had on his small neighborhood business, calling it “very powerful.” He says there have been new customers from not only the neighborhood but also as far as New Jersey and Delaware.
Palillero emphasizes that he’s taking this new business as a sign that they have their vision down pat, and are in no hurry to change or expand.
“We're not thinking much about it because we want to focus on what we have,” Palillero said. “I've been here for 19 years, so the neighbors, they know me and I know all the neighbors. Everybody is friendly with them. So I'm happy. I don't wanna move to other places.”
The restaurant has limited seating and is adorned with flowers grown and picked by Mendez. (Abby Fritz / City Cast Philly)
A big part of this contentment is being able to work with family. Not only is the couple running the business but their daughter, who’s been around the restaurant since she was 10 years old, now works there part-time. She went to school and is now a chef, following her family’s lead, which is a path Palillero said he didn’t influence but she came to on her own.
“The more important thing for me is to stay with my family,” Palillero said.
The business continues to attract laudatory press — just this past month it was included in “The 76,” The Inquirer’s list of restaurants defining Philly right now.
San Lucas Pizzeria is open every day except Wednesdays from noon to 10 p.m. Grab some pizza, stromboli, or wings at the restaurant or use the pizza ordering app Slice.
